Diamond engagement rings antique style – New look at some old favorites

Few recent requests about antique looking modern engagement ring motivated me to write this article and try to define the components constituting this updated antique style and where they come from. I am talking about antique style diamond rings rather than real antique pieces and to differentiate them from real antique pieces, in this article I will call them “Updated antiques”. The antique components in most of the updated antique pieces come from one or more of the following three style periods: Victorian (1837 – 1901), Edwardian (1901 – 1918) an Art Deco (1920 – 1930). This three styles overlap with other prominent style movements from these eras.

Victorian Style is characterized by the introducing of many cultures and ethnic styles “discovered” trough this period: Neo-Etruscan, Neo-Assyrian, Neo-Indian etc. The elements defining The Victorian style in jewelry are symmetrical floral elements, sometime borrowed directly from the nature, insects with dragonfly being the favorite, birds and snakes. These designs are often spiced by elements from the non European cultures mentioned above. There is broad use of colors in the form of gemstones or/and enamel. The elements used in modern ring designs are mostly carved floral accents positioned symmetrically on both sides and sometimes around the main stone. Victorian rings are usually not broad and have specific lacy appearance.

Edwardian style overlaps with the well known Art Nouveau style. This is the era of industrialization ending with World War I. While still in use, the organic elements in Edwardian jewelry are not necessarily symmetrical and are well stylized, meaning the natural form is interpreted by the designer and often used together with geometrical forms. The newly developed diamond cut styles encourage the use of pave studded elements. There are plenty of these elements used in updated antique pieces. The pave studded shanks with delicate floral elements are borrowed from this era. Millegrained edges within the pave are common, but this technique is fully employed in Art Deco Jewelry. Millegrain edging or finish is an ancient technique widely used today to bring about antique look to a jewelry piece. It is achieved by running a small pattern steel wheel over the pre cut edges of the design, leaving behind imprinted row of tiny beads on the soft precious metal. Millegrain edging broadcasts elaborate and sophisticated appearance and intricate detail.

Art Deco is a short but prominent style and is still widely in use in modern jewelry pieces. This style is characterized by geometrical forms, architectural multilevel structure and fine shadow lines. Millegrain edging is employed in almost every Art Deco piece. It is also worth mentioning the limited use of color as well as the Neo Egyptian style revival trough this era. Black and white are favorite colors for Art Deco Jewelry with onyx, diamonds and platinum as favorite media. While there is use of some elements from the previous two styles in updated antique rings, Art Deco is often used on its own without any modern interference. My opinion is that Art deco is the best style for emerald cut diamond engagement ring.